Rich pickings in the orchard of Europe

It’s close to the Costa Blanca, but it remains a deeply Spanish little city, says Sarah Barrell.

Murcia is only a short drive from the Costa Blanca, yet feels far removed from the tourist crowds.

This compact, quietly confident Spanish city, surrounded by mountains, welcomes its few visitors with an elegant pedestrian centre, 18th-century architecture and superb restaurants serving food straight from the surrounding huerta de Europa (orchard of Europe).

The Telegraph Travel section: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/spain/735418/Rich-pickings-in-the-orchard-of-Europe.html

San Diego: Some like it really cool

San Diego may be less than two hours’ drive from Los Angeles but it couldn’t be further removed in spirit. West Coasters like to call the city “LA without the attitude” but this is to miss, entirely, San Diego’s unique qualities. Nothing like its northern neighbour in layout, size, attitude or atmosphere, if San Diego had to be compared to any of its coastal compatriots it would perhaps be San Francisco.

The Independent on Sunday

The hottest holiday for mums-to-be…

…Babymooning

Palm Springs is one of those great American anomalies: an improbable desert settlement wedged between the folds of inhospitable mountains. It’s as if someone came out here with a mind to build another Las Vegas, took a hot soak in the area’s eponymous thermal waters and thought, “Bugger it, who needs neon?”

The place is a testament to nothing, a celebration of still, somewhere to come to be far from anywhere. Between the 1930s and 1960s this desert town in back-country California became home to Hollywood on holiday, with stars such as Elvis, Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr taking part-time residence. But somehow Palm Springs remained determinedly low rise, defiantly low-key – an anti-Vegas. Even its little airport, beneath the incongruously snow-capped peaks of the San Jacinto Mountains, looks like a small luxury resort with barely a signpost to hail its entrance.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/the-hottest-holiday-for-mumstobe–a-babymoon-471251.html

South America special: Ecuador – All change in the city of clouds

Ecuador’s old colonial heart used to be a no-go area. But since it has had a makeover, it’s a must-visit. Sarah Barrell goes exploring downtown

Strange to think that stopping for ice cream could be considered part of an historical tour. But in the “new” Quito old town, it seems things are changing so fast that a septuagenarian ice-cream seller with a lifetime pitch on a corner of Plaza San Francisco is considered something of an endangered relic.

Of course in the old town, a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1978, there’s no lack of historical attractions. This sky-scraping city, capital of Ecuador in the northern Andes is home to some of the most stunning Spanish colonial architecture on the continent. The spires of some 30 churches spike Quito’s skyline, including the oldest in the Americas, the Iglesia San Francisco, the jewel in the crown of yet another superlative – the continent’s largest religious complex. Sitting at an altitude of 2,800m, Quito has always been breathtaking, but in the past few years the city’s colonial hub has undergone a facelift that will truly take your breath away.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/south-america-special-ecuador–all-change-in-the-city-of-clouds-526242.html

Travel Special: September – Upstate New York

At the beginning of September, the Hamptons resounds with the clatter of designer deck chairs going into storage, shutters being hauled down and the collective groan of Manhattan’s chattering classes returning to the city. A cavalcade of overstuffed SUVs filters back through bridge and tunnel trailing Kate Spade beach bags and pedigree pooch accoutrements. Such unseemly seasonal migration isn’t undertaken by the classiest second-home savants, however. The place to be, especially as fall comes around, is upstate New York.

Like the Hamptons, New York’s Catskill Mountains and neighbouring Hudson River Valley are around two hours’ drive from Manhattan. And like the Hamptons, this part of upstate New York has an impressive celebrity caché, except luminaries flocking to this region tend to be of the calibre mentioned in the arts section of the New Yorker, rather than caught in indiscreet poses by the National Enquirer. “De Niro, Liv Tyler, Bowie: they’re like part of the wildlife,” says Kate Pierson, member of the new-wave pop act the B-52s and owner of a new motel near the Catskill’s town of Woodstock. “But this area has always been a retreat for musicians and arty urbanites, so celebrities are pretty much left to themselves.”

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/travel-special-september–upstate-new-york-521853.html

Guyana’s Jungle Lodges

Guyana’s interior is pioneer country. Those who go are rewarded with elegant places to stay, says Sarah Barrell

It’s 10.30am and the shop assistant is already sweating. The transaction isn’t a tough one. I’m an easy mark, armed with American dollars and a consumer’s hunger for one of the traditional Berbice chairs on sale, complete with planter’s arms and chintzy upholstery, but the simple act of breathing here induces a sauna-like glow.

“So you been to Berbice then?” says the salesman with a slow West Indian drawl. I explain that I haven’t visited the former sugar plantation town in Guyana’s interior, which produces the eponymous chair. “But I am going down the Essequibo River,” I offer. “Into the interior and the Amazon.”

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/guyanas-jungle-lodges-516307.html

Wales: Home to the self-proclaimed wacky festival capital of Britain

In the Welsh town of Llanwrtyd Wells, if it’s not the ‘Man vs Horse Marathon’, it’s ‘Morris in the Forest’. Sarah Barrell pays a visit

Festivals are in vogue. From Addis Ababa to Aberdeen, tourism organisations are desperate to jump on the festival bandwagon. Gone are the days when a highbrow arts festival, venerable sporting event or a superlative samba carnival was the only way to get on the international events calendar. From tomato-throwing festivals in Spain to cheese rolling in England, it seems, the “mine’s weirder than yours” ethos now wins. In today’s cut-throat festival climate a little individuality goes a long way – in the case of Llanwrtyd Wells (say: thlan-oor-tid) a little individuality took this tiny Welsh town from obscurity to international tourism stardom. Or as close to celebrity as a town with a population of 604 can hope to get.

According to a sometime listing in Guinness Book of Records, Llanwrtyd Wells is the smallest town in Great Britain. But it has latterly dispensed with its diminutive accolade, preferring to pitch itself as “The Wackiest Town in Britain” or, as one Welsh tourism website puts it, “the eccentric capital of Wales”.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/uk/wales-home-to-the-selfproclaimed-wacky-festival-capital-of-britain-514865.html

Manhattan’s counter culture

Sarah Barrell advises on the best places to spend, eat and rest in her adopted city of New York.

Since the mid 1990s, when New York lifted strict zoning law restrictions limiting the number of chain stores in one area, Midtown in Manhattan has become more like the Midwest, with dull franchises predominating.

Well-heeled local shoppers head to the very north of Midtown bordering the bottom end of the Upper East Side (around Madison Avenue) for the classier stores – think big-name designer houses with thousand-dollar price tags and bouncers on the doors.

The Telegraph Travel section