Driving like Daisy: me and the General Lee, in search of Hazzard County

As ‘The Dukes of Hazzard’ skids on to the big screen, Sarah Barrell fufills a dream – to clamber into the original Dodge Charger and burn rubber in the backstreets of Louisiana

Ever since the General Lee lit up the grey evenings of 1970s British television with a burst of Georgia Peach orange and blast of Dixie horns, I have harboured driving desires. For the generationally challenged among you, the General Lee was the Dodge ’69 Charger that belonged to Bo and Luke Duke, the fast-drivin’, rubber-burnin’ boys of Hazzard County.

Along with their honey-limbed cousin Daisy and the moonshine-making Uncle Jessie, The Dukes of Hazzard was a kind of The Waltons for petrol heads: Americana at its most irresistible. The show ran into the mid-Eighties, a time when my brother and I fought like bobcats in a bear trap for control of our own General Lee (a go-kart dad built from an old pram). Even now, 20 or so years later, I’m still reduced to a near feral state of mouth-frothing at the sight of any Dodge car circa 1970. The latest movie remake of The Dukes of Hazzard TV series finally spurred me into action. After several months of searching, aided by the Louisiana Film Commission, various Deep South tourist boards and a shady dude called Big Al, a date was set.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/driving-like-daisy-in-the-backstreets-of-louisiana-503491.html

New York: feature for the Sunday Independent

Catch a free concert in Central Park, enjoy the art and a cocktail at Moma, and shop till you drop along Fifth Avenue. Sarah Barrell gives an insider’s guide

An air of pre-party excitement always prevails on Virgin’s Friday flights into New York return flights to New York JFK. You’ve watched Melinda and Melinda to get you in the mood for Woody Allen’s Manhattan, ordered one too many glasses of bubbly, snagged a couple of hours’ sleep, and by the magic of time zone change, you land at almost the same time you left. Hurrah! You get to enjoy that Friday feeling all over again, only with cocktails, yellow cabs, and a large serving of shopping on the side.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/longhaul-short-breaks-new-york-497463.html

On the Prowl: searching for snow leopards in Siberia

Sarah Barrell braves sub-zero temperatures to trek across the Siberian wilderness in search of the elusive and endangered snow leopard

It’s the middle of the night on the edge of the world. On the fringes of civilisation where man and beast have barely left a mark, 12 people are sleeping in small nylon tents. Pitched in the scant shelter of two towering mountains, the camp is at the mercy of the elements; and here on the edge of the world, where the steppe rolls relentlessly towards the horizon, the elements aren’t that accommodating.

And what of the occupants of these tents? Are they dreaming of sprung mattresses and central heating systems? No. You can bet what they are dreaming of is that sometime during the next two weeks in the Siberian wilderness, they will cross paths with a large, rare, wild cat. The occupants of these tents have come to the ends of the earth in the name of feline conservation.

Open PDF from Biosphere Expeditions

Postcard from… Mykonos

The Mykonos wallflower: a lesser-known species of Cycladic flora, with bright, gaudy petals and showy blooms. Drab in appearance and prone to wilting.

Three days after stepping onto Mykonos’s shimmering sands, I was ready to leave; the living, sighing embodiment of the maxim, you’re never more alone than when in a crowd. And in a crowd of near-naked, amphetamine-addled, touchy-feely friend-seekers, this was a crushing realisation.

Either way, it was not something this backpacker had bargained for. Having spent the best part of three summers travelling the archipelago, seeking out its every hedonistic enclave, Mykonos seemed like a sure thing: the valedictory end of the party pilgrimage.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/europe/the-jewels-of-the-aegean-526622.html

The Flying Swami: seeking a higher state of consciousness in upstate New York

In the 1950s the ‘Flying Swami’ left India to bring yoga to the West. Half a century on, his ashrams are visited by thousands worldwide every year. Sarah Barrell gets spiritual in upstate New York.

A steaming figure stands in the sauna doorway. He is almost entirely enveloped in a cloud of hot air. I follow him back inside and pull the door shut. As the vapour clears, introductions are made and the conversation ambles from the weather (brutally cold) to yoga classes (hotly anticipated) and the view (blissful wilderness). This is not so much a sauna as an urban decompression chamber. A little over two hours after leaving Manhattan on a bus I find myself exhaling the weight of the metropolis. And I haven’t even got my yoga mat out yet.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/higher-state-of-consciousness-489388.html

A Bed in the clouds: trekking in Ecuador’s Cloud Forest

Ecuador’s mysterious cloud forest has more bird and plant species than the whole of the US. Sarah Barrell explores its ecological riches

It’s dusk in the Ecuadorian cloud forest, and, as far as the untrained eye can make out, high tide. We are, in fact, several hundred metres above sea level. But standing in a small clearing in a forest that carpets a sharp, pyramidal mountain, you could be forgiven for thinking you’d been cast out into the misty Pacific. White nebulous matter rolls out around us like a milky sea, obscuring the neighbouring peaks and mossy valleys below. It’s all I can do to stop myself stepping off the edge and stretching into a languid breaststroke. The Peruvians call it “the eyebrow of the forest”, but this hardly does the place justice. As my Andean companion suggests, “eyelash” would be more apt, for where cloud forest occurs, in a verdant arc above the rainforest and below the harsh brow of the sierra, nature could not be more seductively dressed.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/a-bed-in-the-clouds-489732.html

Wash your cares away: taking a salt bath in Biarritz

The French have put faith in the curative powers of salt water for generations, believing it can heal everything from back pain to cellulite. Sarah Barrell takes the plunge in Biarritz

Therapy, by its very definition, is meant to be therapeutic: the restoration of mind and body administered by gentle healing hands. Whisper the word at a meditative pitch to conjure images of essential oils, massage and gentle soul-probing on soft cushions. But as I signed in for a thalassotherapy session on a chilly morning in the French coastal resort of Biarritz, it became apparent that somewhere along the line the “feel better” factor had got lost in translation.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/europe/wash-your-cares-away-483875.html

Just deserts: a stay at the Explora, in Chile’s Atacama Desert

Great pool. Which is nice when …
… you’re in one of the driest places on earth. With no fear of rainfall, Sarah Barrell heads to Chile’s Atacama Desert, and a deeply fashionable Explora lodge.

Llamas. Not the kind of creature one expects to see by the pool of a luxury hotel. There it was, grinning slightly salaciously, I thought, as I headed for a twilight swim. But then Explora, a luxury lodge in Chile’s Atacama Desert, is not your average hotel. And voyeuristic llamas aside, there is nothing like doing al fresco backstroke to get rid of hours of planes, pains and bumpy automobiles.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/great-pool-which-is-nice-when-533454.html

48 Hours in Washington: The American capital pre-elections

The American capital is abuzz with election fever. Sarah Barrell votes the city a winner at any time of year

WHY GO NOW?
Because there is never a better time to visit the American capital than during the frenzy of a presidential election. At any time of year this city is the hub of the political world but right now everywhere from Washington’s restaurants and museums to hotels and concert halls are alive with election fever. You can eat lunch next to bright young things as they compose drafts of speeches on café counter-tops, and watch lobbyists make frantic political predictions over happy-hour cocktails. Just watch out for those motorcades whizzing up and down Pennsylvania Avenue.

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/americas/48-hours-in-washington-545411.html

Woman about world: trans-Siberian road trip

The long road to nowhere ended with a revelation

The likes of Flaubert and Freya Stark may have eulogised about it but for most, travel is merely a means to an end. In the jet age, the “getting there” bit of a holiday is simply a bland necessity between home and where you want to be.

But what if, without the act of getting there, your destination would make no sense at all? Imagine plucking one of those itinerant writers out of, say, the London docks, plonking them down, an in-flight movie and a packet of peanuts later, in the middle of as-yet uncharted Africa?

But what if, without the act of getting there, your destination would make no sense at all? Imagine plucking one of those itinerant writers out of, say, the London docks, plonking them down, an in-flight movie and a packet of peanuts later, in the middle of as-yet uncharted Africa?

Read more: http://www.independent.co.uk/travel/asia/sarah-barrell-woman-about-world-543323.html