All things considered, the Amazon’s waterways are not the best place to go for a dip. Yet, four hours upriver from the last major town, several of our crew members were plunging over the side of our little wooden motorboat into red clay waters that must, surely, conceal at least one of the species found on our ‘to-be-avoided-at-allcosts’ checklist. As four brave, fully booted souls pushed against the boat’s roughly hewn hull, feet struggling for purchase against the obstructive sandbar, the words ‘piranha’ and ‘caiman’ formed in a collective thought bubble above our heads…

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