Are there bears there?” asked Ella, pointing to the blur of farmland framed through the train’s window. “Or there? Maybe there are bears there?” Having travelled for less than 90 minutes from Stockholm, Ella, nine, didn’t seem convinced of this wild possibility. But there were bears, and moose and wolves, too: our neighbours for the weekend.
A maverick energy shapes the hurricane-lashed Caribbean island of Grenada — home to derring-do locals, rugged peaks and fiery rum. But a gentler side is on show in its waterfall-dotted jungly interior, white sand beaches and pretty clapboard villages
This is about grief. This is not an homage – not, at least, in the way of clever references to back catalogues and B-sides, or to gender and fashion influences or greatest hits lists.
This about the glaring space left when something you cherish, something that has sung its way into your bones leaves you forever. This is about the awkwardness of mourning someone you’ve never met. That this somehow makes you an intellectual weakling; a self-indulgent fool…
These words are because I don’t know how else to fill the silence, because today there can only be silence. Continue reading →
It may have been dubbed ‘the new Bodrum’ but Alaçati is far less bling than its glitzy neighbour. For boho-chic boutique hotels, rustic refined restaurants and a laid-back surfer vibe, say hello to Turkey’s latest, (almost) Aegean resort
An insider’s guide to this historic Italian city of grand piazzas and leftfield fun. Discover big thrills in its restaurants and buzzy markets and meet the makers of its party scene, in their hipster dens and arty abodes
Yes, it’s been harvested, ingested and digested. The process may have demanded some metaphorical Rennie but…. it’s here! My new book, From the Source: Italy, the debut in an innovative new Lonely Planet series, a glossy, photo-led hardback featuring 60 recipes that define Italian regions, and the stories behind the people who make them.
Can’t wait until British Bake-off? Then warm up with my top three Italian sweet treats… and find out where in Italy to eat them.
Tiramisù: the ultimate pick me up pud’
A Holy Trinity of ingredients go into tiramisù whose name derives from the Italian words “tira” (pull/lift) “mi” (me) su (up): Savoiardi biscuits, espresso and mascarpone. And for the original recipe, make for the pretty, canal-lined city of Treviso where this dessert is said to have been born, at the hands of a pregnant woman in need of an energy boost; now served at Le Beccherie restaurant.
A classic bake from the north, torta alle nocciole is packed full of top-notch hazelnuts from the hilly Langhe region of Piemonte, and a cream of premium gianduja chocolates creating a soft cake with an almost mousse-like texture. And for a recipe that has an extra crunch, with an almost biscuit-like finish, visit Stratta, one of the jewel-like 19th century pasticceria that line Turin’s Parisian-style boulevards.
This distinctive cupola-shaped cake may look regal but has modest origins, a way for families to sweeten-up dough with candied fruits. Made popular in 20th century Milan, still today each December Milanese newspapers publish top tens featuring the best spots to buy the panettone that will crown the Christmas table. My pick? A tough one but it’s probably Pasticceria Marchesi, a sugary landmark since 1824, lately acquired by Prada.
It’s Friday evening in Kent and I’m nose to snout with a rhino. It’s a whopper, this prehistoric beast, its horn-heavy muzzle mere centimetres from my face, albeit behind a hefty fence. Beyond the paddock…